Fall and Winter Storage Work for Ophelia


     Below is the latest list of work we intend to do on Ophelia between now and April 1st, 2020, when she is on hard.  It is a decent sized list, some of which I plan to do myself when the boat enters the heated winter storage shed around November 20th.  She will be inside until approximately April 1st, giving me a bunch of weekends and weekday evenings to whittle down this list!   My Goal is to have as little "down-Time" as possible during the cruising season, and get all the work done in the off-season.  

     I am happy to report that two large (expensive) and difficult items fell off my list, because as I dug into them, they were not needed.  The first item to be stricken from the work-list would have required moving the main engine forward with a winch & several chains about 8 inches.  I was sure my main engine needed a new vibration dampener plate at 5,000 hours!  I was hearing conflicting info until Nancy & Ron Goldberg (N50 Duet) emailed me that "As far as we know, the L6108 doesn’t have a vibration dampener plate."  I decided to inquire with Lugger Training guru, Bob Senter, who is in Seattle with Northern Lights / Lugger.  Bob emailed me right back indicating "It’s a terminology challenge. Your L6108 does have a front crankshaft vibration damper but it’s a silicon filled version that does NOT require periodic replacement like Deere six cylinder engines. Some people refer to the torsional coupling between the flywheel and the transmission as a “damper plate.”  So this was the source of my confusion!  And the source for me to remove that pain in the ass job off my list! Thanks Duet Crew and Thanks Bob Senter!

    The second item that fell off my winter to-do list was also related to my Main Engine.  It was to inspect the K31 Turbo, which was made by KKK/Borg Warner. I learned that my turbo is an emission upgrade used on the Lugger marine engines, not on the original Komatsu base engine. The tech's checking it called to tell me that the bearings were indeed shot and we needed to either buy a new one or re-build it.  I was told that the cost for a new turbo for my engine, was $8,500, with a 60-Day backlog. Uh ohh….not cool. The high cost was because they really no longer make them for my specific engine. A few more calls to people much smart than I am about such things, led me to YachtTech (James) who put me in touch with Turbo Dave!  I spoke to Turbo Dave for a bit on the phone and he assured me 1) highly improbable my turbo is bad – more likely the tech had not run the engine up to temp first, to get hot oil flowing into the turbo bearings, which would greatly reduce any axial play my techs had witnessed and 2) the cost to recondition or build new, would be in the ballpark of $1,500. Rebuilding would be 1-day turn time, but again, he assured me my turbo would be found to be fine, after we re-tested it & 5K hours is just getting started. Turbo Dave's info also lined up well with the Nordhavn Owner's Group info i was getting.  So I felt safe to pull this off the list and move on to other items!


  1. Main / Gennie / Wing Seasonal:  Oil, Zincs, Racor & On-Engine Filters, Impellers
  2. New Dock Bumpers and Relocate Cleats
  3. Buy One Custom Wood Blind and Test It for Looks & Functionality.  If good, do the others in salon
  4. Measure the diameter of the Stainless Steel 316, for my custom SS316 Tray over Main Engine
  5. Finally Clean out the Storage Boxes in Laz and Cockpit & Itemize / consolidate Spare Parts into new Clear Bins
  6. Wood Work & Paint to extend shelf in ER Starboard for my Storage Boxes
  7. Clean Strainer for Forward shower sump
  8. Check Bow Thruster Prop and Zincs
  9. Check Stern Thruster Prop & Zincs and re-install all bolts and Lock washers
  10. Majilite Master Stateroom Panels: Measure the Length of the Longest Panel and the Width, see what is remaining in Basement and buy more material
  11. Install the 2 Missing Screws at Bow Rub Rail
  12. Finish Installing the snaps /screws on Salon & Pilot House Bug Screens (1/8th Inch Drill Bit)
  13. Affix my deep Bilge LEDs with Velcro to prevent movement in seaway
  14. Finish Re-Doing Teak Steps on both Swim & Flybridge Ladders (Finish with Semco)
  15. Swap out the Bilge Pump with New One and use the Rebuild Kit for the Old One 
  16. Varnish Teak Salon Ho-Lo Table At Home
    1. Light sand & two coats UV, followed by 3 coats Epifanes Rubbed effect
  17. Re-Bed Swim Platform Staples



  1. Salon and Pilot House New Cushions and 
  2. Sea Grass in Salon (Charlie to Order, Brett to Template)
    1. Ask Brett about amount of Binding to buy



  1. Install new WIFI system in Pilot House
    1. PepWave Router
    2. AIGEAN AN-7000 (12V DC Powered)
    3. Dual Omni Directional Bullet Antenna (695-3000MHz / 4-pDB Gain)
    4. Router and other misc parts/wiring
  2. Install Rigid 50 Inch Light-Bar onto Solar Panels (Buy in Black to match solar panel framing)



  1. AirTex Davit Service
  2. Install Line Storage Handler in Cockpit, just below Salon Window
  3. Barnacle Bust my AirCon Units (set this up so I can do this easily down the road, with correct valves, etc, in-line)
  4. Winterize Watermaker (spare Filter Set is under Salon Settee)
  5. Install New Oberdorfer 104M Centrifugal AirCon Pump (240V / Located in Aft Laz)
  6. Gelcoat Repairs around the boat as marked with Tape
  7. Inspect my Rudder Packing and the hydraulic Steering Pump (works Great, but has not been looked at closely since 2017)
  8. Inspect my 12V DC Electrical System:  Seeing two things. 1) parasitic draw in winter storage (batteries dead after 3 days, when all breakers off) & 2) No Load Bluetooth solar chargers showing me 12.85V, but the Pilot House indicator is showing sometimes 12.4V.
  9. Main Engine 5,000 Hour Service Work
    1. Check all belt tensions
    2. Check my turbo (Must run engine to Temp & Test Hot and quickly, before Oil drains down)
    3. The Main Engine exhaust Black Hose section near my muffler, at aft-end of the engine room, is aging.  Replace that aging hose section and ensure no raw water leaking….sea trial under load, to ensure no sea water leaks around the clamps into muffler.
    4. Check injectors & injection Pump
    5. Flush Heat Exchanger & muriatic acid to clean it out
    6. Check & Clean Gear Oil Cooler
    7. Inspect all fuel, Oil & cooling lines
    8. Inspect Transmission Oil Leak (Balto Mechanic replaced my seals on this pump in January 2019, but still leaking slightly.  Let’s do new pump)
  10.  Gennie 4,500 Hour Service Work
    1. Check Valve Clearances
    2. Check injector Pump
    3. Coolant Flush


  1. Install my Larger Oberdorfer Fuel Polishing Pump
  2. Re-Do the Boot Stripe, like we talked about last winter (Come On Guys)
  3. Add 2 Windshield Wiper Units to match existing wipers, so we cover all four Pilot House Windows
  4. Remove AFT Salon Door & Clean the Trucks so it slides smoothly
  5. Tighten Tecma MASTER Toilet Seat and ensure Washing Machine is centered in its cabinet (otherwise louvered doors don’t close properly)
  6. Freshen up Bottom Paint & the paint around my Stern Thruster (black bottom paint)
  7. New Zincs Below Water Line
  8. Clean all Thru Hulls and Strainer Baskets;  Open Up Cheese Grater Baskets on Underside to clear seasonal Barnacle growth.
  9. New Duck Bill Valves on both Forward Head & Pump-Out pump
  10. Replace the Zinc Anode on the Newly Installed Hot Water Heater under MSR Bed
  11. Re-bed All Deck Hardware / Anchor Pulpit Forward of the Portuguese Bridge and the Stainless Stanchion Rails (NOTE:  Charlie did the starboard two handrails starting AFT cockpit, but nothing else.)

Couple quick pics of Ophelia and my great friends, Scott & Jodie, from Florida visiting Ophelia Fall 2019

Ophelia getting on a Ball in the Front-40 of Annapolis, Maryland

Missy and Jodi

Scott rolling down the Chesapeake Sept 2019

Tom & Linda’s beautiful N46 Hanuman, visiting Baltimore Inner Harbor


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