Winter Work on Ophelia

Ophelia is about a week away from heading into her winter storage shed, just north of Annapolis, at Pleasure Cove Marina.  Because it is heated & indoors, it is a great location to get lots of work done without interrupting the cruising season.

Here is a very raw list of items we intend to have done over the winter. Some bullet points are relatively simple, whereas others may be a larger project, such as Solar Panels. I am sure the final outcome by spring will have changed, but the items below are the bulk of the things that I am interested in having done over the next 4 months…..

  1. Finish the Bow / Stern Thruster Project (Proportional made this Complicated)
    1. Carefully remove the ABT Bow Thruster to be shipped up to Massachusetts.  Package for shipment.  Please take some photos of removal, as it will be getting reinstalled by Washburn’s, once it gets shipped back to Pleasure Cove. Being Shipped out to convert it to Proportional Control, to Match the newly installed Side Power Stern Thruster
    2. Deeper Cowlings to Stern Thruster
    3. Test & Confirm proportional feature seems to function as designed
    4. Finalize Joy Stick Installations Pilot House and Fly Stations
    5. Confirm Charging is adequate
  2. Inspect & Clean up Airitex davit Hydraulic Lines & remove all underside Rust and Repaint rams as Necessary – works great, this is Preventative Service
  3. Install New Belts on Over-Hung Load Adapter
  4. Install Two Larger Solar Panels On Flybridge Stainless 360 Watt LG 
        • LG 360 Watt Q1c-A5 Panels (2x)
        • 50’ 10-3 Marine Grade Wire with MC4 Connectors
        • Victron 30Amp MPPT Smart Blue Tooth Solar Charge Controller
        • 1.25” Gemini Hinged Jaw Slide
  5. Replace NAIAD Hydraulic Pump
  6. Replace NAIAD Underwater Main Seals
  7. Check Naiad Hydraulic fluid
  8. Clean NAIAD Heater Exchanger Bundle
  10. RE-WRAP the Riser Wrap Following my Photos
  11. Remove the Main Rub Rail around the boat, so we can properly rebed & run thru Polisher
    1. Try to polish out the rub rail and any dings/dents when it is off the boat, prior to reinstalling rubrail
  12. Minor Cosmetic Fiberglass Repairs around the boat (EMAILED THE PDF LIST with PICS in OCT to Get On Schedule)
    1. Port Hawser near PH Door is a decent sized crack
    2. Aft Cockpit has some minor spider cracks
    3. Cockpit Entry flooring Chipped
    4. Cockpit LED Light above Entry Way to Salon Slider Door (Chip just under LED)
    5. Swim platform decking cracks in spots.
    6. Fix Dinghy Davit Decking (my epoxy resin over-flow around base on two of the Davit-Stands for Tender)
  1. Tape off and re-Caulk a) the Radar Arch area, b) in front of Venturi Windscreen (where fly attaches to pilot house roofing), c) all around the Flybridge Built-in seating, d) the Upper Helm station, etc
    1. Do NOT use 5200
    2. UV-Resistant Fast Cure 4000 UV White Sealant
    3. Keep designated drainage spots Clear of Caulking
  2. Holding Tank Inspection
    1. Inspect Pick-Up Tubes in Holding Tank (Probably very damaged from old age); New replacements out of PVC
  3. Remove both Pilot House Doors and repair the Rollers on bottom so they slide easily.  Right now they drag.  Have Steps to Complete from NOG
  4. Install New Hot Water Heater (Match the same Manufacturer & Size)
    1. Replace the Coolant Hose Loop from Main Engine to This Hot Water Heater and Ensure Not Kinked; Must Be Double Clamped. Must Be heavy duty heater hose (J2006 Marine Wet Exhaust Hose) (not automotive heater hose).  If there are ANY Sharp Turns, Must use the Wire Reinforced Version. If any turns are very sharp, consider installing a bronze 90 degree fitting. Double clamps are good, but I find many of the pipe to hose adapters on hose this size are too short to accept two. If you can only fit one, be sure to use the solid band style. Don’t force fit double clamps on any adapter that doesn’t have the room to accept them, including at least 1/8″ gap between them.
  5. Foredeck Raw Water Spigot needs to be replaced – it just spins & spins
  6. Check Main Shaft Grounding Wires in Bilge Area……some are loose / Others connected
  7. New Boot Stripe – Match Same Coloring and layout
  8. Install in the Aft Cockpit:   TWO 50-Amp Smart Plug 1) Main House & 2) AC Inlet, similar to Bow. Let’s discuss the best locations for this installation PRIOR to the install…..
  9. Touch up Bottom Paint, Install new Zincs outside Boat; Clean all thru-hulls & Strainers
  10. Replace Forward Head’s Duck Bill Valve for VacuFlush
  11. Replace any Duck Bills for Pump Out Pump 
  12. Air Leak in 1 of my 3 separate water tanks. Manifold is in Engine Room, Port Side, forward).
    1. MID works fine
    2. The Forward and Aft BOTH air leak
    3. Tighten all hardware in system to stop the air bleeding into system & check Vents & Test
  13. Swap out Main Engine Raw Water Coolant Pump (ensure New Impeller) (Wait to do this until APRIL)
  14. Drain water from both the GEN and Main Engine Raw Water Pumps to prevent damage from sitting
  1. Begin to Re-Caulk Outside Hardware (Stanchions and stuff)
  2. Ensure LED Lights Inside, wherever NOT dimmable (cabins, hallways, etc) (BRIGHT)
  3. Install New Clipsals around boat over the winter
  4. Continue with Window & Door Frame Interior Varnish
  5. Huper Optic Ceramic In Salon Only
  6. Begin to Redo Ceiling Panels. Start with one small one. Set up area in Basement to work
  7. Buy Zaal’s NOFLEX Digestor for heads & holding Tank / Extra Carbon Filters aboard?
  8. SOLAR PANELS on TOP of Pilot House:  Make Cardboard Templates and determine layout
  9. Service All Strainer Baskets
  10. Change All Oil (ME, GE WE)
  11. Change Zincs (Main Engine Plus NAIAD)
  12. Go thru the LAZ boxes and consolidate them
  13. Inspect and Swap out all Rusted or old Hose Clamps In the ER, LAZ
  14. Install the Cooler LED Bilge Lights (Four from Imtra) (needs Epoxy Mounting)
  15. Port Main Fuel Tank Site Valve weeps fuel
  16. Inspect the Oil Drip at base of Main Engine Transmission
  17. Main Engine Throttle Cable from ENGINE to MATHERS wireless Control got knocked and has become stiff and unable to extend all the way to 2300 RPMs. Replace with New
Yanmar MODEL 3JH3E / Serial A0317 / Hours 70 +/- / Continuous Rating 3650 RPM, MAX 3800 Rpm: Survey Comments to Address this winter:
  1. Inspect Wing Engine Exhaust Check Valve: (Centek 1200328 2” check)
  2. The marine gear & Throttle control cables are very difficult to operate.  Mechanical Cables and related linkage need to be either lubricated or replaced.
  3. The raw water pump is seeping raw water from the shaft seal area. The shaft seal and bearing are corroded. Recondition or replace raw water pump.
  4. The jacket water hoses appear to be original and are deteriorated. The engine oil cooler hoses are of particular concern. Replace all hoses and clamps as required
  5. The vee belt is deteriorated and appears to be original.  Replace belt and detail related debris
  6. The marine gear oil cooler (raw water) is corroded and seeping from the gaskets and seals. Cooler appears to be original. Recondition oil cooler as required.
  7. The heat exchanger appears to be original or unserviced to date. The heat exchanger gaskets are seeping or are deteriorated. Inspect/recondition heat exchanger and all related raw water lines/hoses, etc.
  8. The exhaust hose routed from the Yanmar exhaust elbow to the muffler is deteriorated or very stiff. Isolation of unit is compromised and exhaust elbow is being subject to undesigned stress. Inspect/replace exhaust elbow. Update exhaust hose with silicone type.
  9. Marine gear oil was found to be leaking from the oil dipstick tube plug area. Replace plug seal and monitor for further development. Check oil capacity. Unit may be overfilled.
  10. Service raw water system siphon brake.

Scheduled for DECEMBER 10th MONDAY
  1. Replace Existing Engine Room fans (4-count) with Higher CFM Delta-T Fans. However, before starting the project, determine 1) if the Wiring Must be made larger and 2) can we put on a separate Inverter so we do not alter house inverter loads? Could Mount the new Inverter next to existing one, in Aft Laz or mount it in the Engine Room
    1. 2 Count / AFT FANS:  12-V, 11-inch / DOUBLE CHECK Heavier Gauge Wire Runs, as needed
    2. 2 Count / FWD FANS:  Squirrel Fans  / DOUBLE CHECK Heavier Gauge Wire Runs, as needed
    3. One Aft Should Blow In & One Aft Fan should blow air out
    4. Both Squirrel Fans Should Blow Air Up Stack, NOT PULL INTO Engine Room
    5. IMPORTANT NOTE: all 4-Fans are currently wired into my 12V Fire Shutdown system, so we need to be careful when running new wires, to follow the exact set up. We must not attempt to wire these fans some alternate route!!!  They must remain part of fire-shutdown 12V system, for safety.

Scheduled for February 2019
  1. Template Sea Grass Flooring in Pilot House
    • Ordered Materials November 1 2018 to ship to my house
  2. Stamoid Fly Sun-Dodger (match the existing Dark Blue Canvas)
  3. Windlass & Lewmar Hatche Covers
  4. Bug Screens on Pilot House Doors and Main Salon Door
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